First Time Travel Tips

Shoulder Season...the best deal in travel

2009-01-15T22:18:00.004-05:00

Vacationing in "prime time" or high season might offer the best chance for ideal weather, but it is also the most expensive. Often aligned with festivals and school vacations, it is also the most crowded. I find shoulder season travel is the best value. Usually the weather is not much different than the beginning or end of high season, yet there are fewer crowds, and most of all, it's often a great bargain. Along with significant discounts on lodging, attractions and even transportation, I find shoulder season travel to be more relaxing and offer more opportunity to meet locals and explore a new place.

High seasons vary depending on location and are usually outlined in guidebooks and destination websites. Pick from the weeks right before and after and you can land a great deal.

A note about low season: while deeply discounted, off-season rates can be tempting, there are usually good reasons these times are less desirable. Even a cheap vacation can be ruined if the weather is horrible or attractions closed.

5 ideas for one day in Dublin

2009-01-01T18:09:00.029-05:00

A recent business trip provided me with my first taste of Ireland. But it was a very short trip and I had only a little time to explore the capital city of Dublin. My challenge was to find a good mix of activities and experiences that would leave me with a rich cultural recollection despite the short time frame.

While museum visits and tours of the countryside would have no doubt played prominently in a longer stay, I concentrated my limited time on exploring the urban center of this fascinating city. I knew I couldn't see it all, but traveling exclusively on foot, I discovered wonderfully warm people, charming neighborhoods and interesting sights, steeped in history.

Temple Bar: Running along the south bank of the Liffey (river) in the central part of Dublin feels like stepping back in time. Narrow cobblestone streets are lined with tiny shops and eateries. It's decidedly bohemian flavor combines with historic structures, and a dose of urban grunge, to create a unique artistic feel. A highlight for me was the Wall of Fame; a giant photo gallery of Ireland's top musical artists covering the exterior wall of the Temple Bar Music Centre on Temple Lane. Overall, this cultural center of Dublin is popular with tourists. The living-dublin website has more good info about Temple Bar.

Irish Film Institute: I was fortunate to have my brief work in Dublin take place at the Film Institute and nearby center for filmmakers Filmbase. Both located in Temple Bar, their presence makes this area a magnet for media arts practitioners and aficionados. Check out the daily screenings of at the institute or browse the library.

Bookstores: There were so many bookstores in central Dublin. From fancy shops with the latest titles, to academic bookstores, to my favorite, the used bookstores. Look for "Bygone Days", a kiosk in the bustling Market Arcade on South Great Georges St. that is absolutely stuffed with literary finds and old Irish texts. With camera in hand, I set out to create a photo essay of Dublin bookstores and made many discoveries along the way.

Irish Pubs: I don't think anyone can truly appreciate Dublin without at least one visit to a real Irish Pub. The fresh Guinness is delicious, but more impressive to me was the atmosphere. Crowded and festive, even on a weeknight in early December, everyone treated everyone else like family. People were warm and friendly and everyone, young and old, socialized together. And as a visiting American, I felt truly welcomed.

Architectural Delights: While wandering around on a crisp morning, I really enjoyed looking at the buildings. Christ Church Cathedral is an awe-inspiring landmark dating back to the 11th century. It is located on the edge of Temple Bar at what was the mediaeval center of Dublin. For a modest fee you can tour the inside. Walking the outside perimeter and taking in the amazing detail, well, that's totally free!

I would never recommend having only a day or two in Ireland, but I am delighted that I had a chance to spend even a little time in this fascinating city. I can't wait to go back and explore the rest!

Sonoma County Vacation...more than vineyards

2008-12-31T17:52:00.023-05:00

Sonoma County, California is renowned for vineyards and winery tours. Guests arrive from around the world to sample some of the world's finest Chardonnays, Cabernets and Merlots. But this picturesque region, starting 45 miles north of San Francisco, has so much more to offer. From towering redwood forests and rugged coastlines to charming antique shops and historic settlements, Sonoma County offers a delightful array of activities and sights beyond the vines.

Santa Rosa: This county seat of Sonoma County, is a bustling, yet welcoming community. Home of famed cartoonist Charles Schluz, it's the location of the Schulz Museum, complete with a Snoopy head labyrinth. The museum is next door to Snoopy's Home Ice, the arena where Mr. Schulz lunched daily and often played senior's hockey. In addition to it's welcoming downtown, antique-filled "old town" and summertime farmers market, Santa Rosa is a horticultural delight. Check out the rose gardens and spineless cacti at the Luther Burbank Home and Gardens, on the south edge of downtown. If great performances are more your style, I highly recommend the Wells Fargo Center for the Arts The main theatre seats only 1600 in an intimate setting, yet consistently brings world class acts to wine country.

Sonoma Valley: Steeped in history, the town of Sonoma is home to the Spanish Sonoma mission and at nearby Jack London State Park you will find the impressive ruins of the famed author's home. The Sonoma town plaza was the site of the 1846 Bear Flag "revolution", declaring California a republic. Also, each spring, Sonoma plays host to the prestigious Sonoma International Film Festival .

Healdsburg: This charming community, north of Santa Rosa is a foodie's paradise. Streets surrounding the lovely town square (complete with gazebo) reveal 5 star dining and artisan food products galore. In between these upscale eateries are boutiques, galleries and numerous B & B's. A great area for biking, on many mornings, hot air balloons dot the sky.

Petaluma: Remember "Back to the Future" and "Peggy Sue Got Married?" These are just two of numerous films that have used Petaluma as a backdrop. The southern most town in the county, Petaluma also has an active theater community like at the Cinnabar. Often thought of as a picturesque victorian river town, the Petaluma River is actually a tidal estuary linked to San Francisco Bay. A wonderful place for bird-watching.

West County: For stunning natural beauty, few places rival the west county. Driving west from Santa Rosa along the Russian River, visitors experience awesome redwood forests including Armstrong Woods near the lively river town of Guerneville (pronounced "gurn-vil"). Continuing west on River Road will reveal the tiny resort towns of Monte Rio, Duncans Mills, and eventually Jenner, where the river spills into the mighty Pacific Ocean. The majority of the Sonoma coast is publicly owned and offers a myriad of beaches, coves and vistas. Traveling south from Jenner to the fishing town of Bodega Bay is a breathtaking journey. Other west county highlights include the bohemian hamlet of Occidental and the eclectic and artsy Sebastopol.

Sonoma County is one of my favorite places on earth and my suggestions only brush the surface of things to do and places to see. Certainly, go for the wine country experience, but be sure to make plenty of time to discover things "beyond the vines". For more info, check out the Sonoma County Tourism Bureau.

First Time Travel to Venice

2008-12-30T20:48:00.015-05:00

Ah, Venezia! Venice is one of the most unique travel destinations in the world. Though often considered an expensive city to visit, there are many tips and suggestions that can both reduce stress and save money.

Getting around - Water taxis and the Vapporetto Unlike other world class cities, where local transportation is often little more than a necessity, local travel in Venice is a memorable part of the Venice experience. Venice consists of a maze of waterways where the iconic gondola shares the watery thoroughfares with delivery skiffs, private watercraft and public safety motorboats. Water taxis are a plentiful and convenient (yet pricey) option. The vapporetto, (aka the water bus) on the other hand, is a reliable, efficient and cost-effective way to get around. And the scenic views on the Grand Canal are the same either way! Both options are available for visitor arriving at either the train station or the airport. Multiple day passes for the vaparetto are available at most floating “bus stops” and provide unlimited passage around Venice and to neighboring islands like Murano and Lido). These are a great deal for 3 days or more of independent sight-seeing. An important tip…be sure to stamp your ticket at the toll box before boarding the boat.

Gondolas Goldolas are a charming symbol of this romantic city. While pricey, the leisurely tour is considered by many to be a “must do”. While Venice has a standard price set by the local government, negotiation is a common practice. To save money, take a daytime ride and negotiate your own tour at one of the gondolas stationed a bit away from tourism intensive areas of the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s square. Gondola tours arranged by tour companies or hotels are likely to be quite a bit more expensive. Many gondoliers docked in smaller canals are frequently open to negotiation and you can easily agree on a price and tour parameters that can make your ride unique.

Beyond St. Mark’s Square — getting lost in Venice In addition to the standard “must see” locations in Venice found in every tour book, many of the richest experiences are nearly free by simply wandering the streets and walkways of this fascinating old city. Be sure to spend a bit of time in the more residential areas on the south side of the grand canal, visiting small neighborhood shops and tiny espresso bars, and generally soaking in bit of the colorful daily life of Venetians. Be sure to visit some of the charming neighborhood churches which are rich in artistic and historic beauty, and often open to the public.

Fun with food… Espresso, gelato and trattorias In addition to many wonderful guidebook restaurants, Venice is full of quaint trattorias - casual establishments providing wonderful and authentic “homestyle cooking”. The typical meal is a leisurely event with an antipasto (appetizer), Prima (or first) course — often pasta and a second course of meat or fish. But while this is standard, it is perfectly ok to order fewer courses. And remember, when trying to calculate how much a meal will cost, food is almost always priced ala carte and often comes with a service fee. Simply ask if service is included, or not. Bottled water is usually offered - sparkling or still — but know that it will be added to your bill. A liter of house wines is often the most cost-effective beverage - and quite delicious! For an alternative to dining, visit a neighborhood grocery and make a picnic. People watching over a simple lunch of bread, cheese and cured meats can make for a perfect break in the day. And of course, gelato, Italy’s version of ice cream, must be eaten at least once a day (and preferable more). When it comes to grabbing a quick cup of joe, strong espresso and delicious cappuccino is readily available at coffee bars all over town. Unlike lunch or dinner, coffee is usually less of a lingering affair. Most Venetians and seasoned visitors take their espresso while standing at the coffee bar. This is also a good way to save money, as sitting at a table will come with a service charge.

Neighboring islands..Lido, Burano and Murano Easily accessed by waterbus, these neighboring islands each have their own unique charm and are worth a visit. The Lido (Lido di Venezia), comes alive in the summer with it’s sunny beaches and fun-loving beachgoers. It is also the home to the renowned Venice Film Festival and the end of each summer. Burnao is a charming island, full of small, brightly painted houses. It’s the place to go for authentic Venetian lace. Murano is known as the home of famed Venetian glass makers. In the 13th century, all of the glass furnaces were move to the island to reduce the risk of fire on the main island of Venice. While glass factory tours can be arranged by hotels and tour companies, it is entirely possible to take the waterbus to Murano on your own and visit the artisans and their shops. You will often be invited to join another tour.

Language - a few good words Probably my most important tip is about language. While most Venetians in the tourist areas speak English, I have found that attempting to learn and use a few words of Italian, greatly enhances the experience. A cheery “buon giorno” (good day) or “buona sera” (good evening) lets your hosts know that you are pleased to visit their community and culture. Spend a bit of time before you go, familiarizing yourself with numbers, simple phrases and of course “grazi” (thank you). A good website for this is: http://www.ielanguages.com/italian1.html

A trip to Venice can be a vacation of a lifetime and it doesn’t have to break the bank. Before you go, look at a range of Venice travel guides, and read about the Venice adventures of other real people. Insights from other travelers are a great way to put you in the right frame of mind to embark on your own adventure. Then when you arrive, take it slow, keep your eyes open, and soak up the wonder that appears around every corner. Ciao!

A Few of My Favorite Things: Florence

2008-12-30T20:16:00.004-05:00

Travel books and vacation planning websites are filled with “must see” landmarks and comprehensive itineraries covering all of the well-known highlights of popular destinations. In Florence there are, of course, many wonderful, iconic sights and experiences; from Michelangelo’s David to the famed Duomo; and world class shopping from Armani to Valentino. But there’s much more to a successful vacation than simply adhering to a checklist. Many of my most memorable travel moments are found in small experiences and delightful “finds” along the journey. Here is the first in a series "My Favorite Things" Up first...the ever-inspiring, Florence, Italy.

Walking from the train station: If arriving by train, and your luggage has wheels or is manageable to carry, the Florence train station is within reasonable walking distance of most hotels in the main part of Florence. If it’s your first trip, I highly recommend walking to your hotel. It’s a great way to begin soaking up the ambiance and flavor of Florence. It’s not easy to get lost and your path will likely take you through charming covered walkways, past interesting sites to explore in the coming days, and provide you with a bit of geographical grounding to help orient you to the city. It is also a nice way to set a leisurely tone for your visit.

Still Waters: The Arno River bisects Florence. Spanned by charming old bridges (including the famed Ponte Vechhio), it is lined with hotels, apartment buildings, and small shops. On a calm day (or even night), the still waters of the Arno provide nearly perfect mirror reflections that are ideal for photographers. So many of my favorite photographs from Florence include these stunning double images.

Museum of Costume: Smaller museums in Florence are up against some major competition (including the famed Uffizi Gallery). Once of my favorite smaller exhibits is the Museum of Costume, one of six museums housed in the Pitti Palace, 5-6 blocks southwest of the Ponte Vecchio bridge. This textile themed gallery takes visitors through the fascinating history of Italian fashion. And unlike the long lines usually encountered at the Accademia or the Uffizi, we found reservations unnecessary for this delightful find.

To Market, To Market: Tucked into a typical Florence neighborhood on the south side of the Arno (south east of the Ponte Vecchio bridge) is a modest neighborhood church and the adjacent Piazza Santo Spirito. It is the home of a regular neighborhood flea market. The Santo Spirito market is open most weekday mornings, but on the 2nd Sunday of each month, it’s an all day affair. From antiques, to dried fruit; hand-crafted beads to household goods, we found it to be a fabulous way to interact with resident Florentines. Whether bartering for souvenirs or simply soaking in the bustle of the colorful market, it was a wonderful find that enriched our experience.

Fried Polenta: This brings me to another delight discovered at the flea market. Much like county fair food stands in the US, the flea market offered an Italian version of hand-held carnival food. My favorite, by far, was the delicious fried polenta. Deep fired squares of this cornmeal staple are serve hot, fresh and buttery; simply melting in my mouth.

Music of the Night: Music in the streets of Florence is like having a built-in sound track to your vacation experience. During the day, you will encounter numerous musicians and small ensembles as you wander the streets. But the music really seems to come alive at night. Sitting on the steps across from the Uffizi in the Piazza della Signoria, with a dozen or so others, a solo musician, neearly unseen in the dark shadows of the night, filled the air with beautiful ballads. This simple concert, was one of our most romantic experiences in Florence. Keep your ears open and you may find yourself enjoying a similar serenade.

The Baptistry: OK, so this one is in every guidebook, but in central Florence, this unique eight-sided architectural treasure is dwarfed by the adjacent Duomo. Most visitors walk around the exterior of the Baptistry to view the ornate “relief” door panels dating from the beginning of the renaissance. Yet I found that actually stepping inside reveals the most stunning beauty of the landmark…an awe inspiring display of intricate 13th century mosaic on the octagonal dome. Breathtaking!

There are certainly important and historically significant sights to be seen when in Florence. I don’t suggest you forgo marvelling at the works of Botticelli or passing by the Boboli Gardens, but I encourage you to occasionally leave the checklist behind and take delight in the smaller things that will add great richness and texture to your vacation memories.